![]() That spring mechanism can corrode and stick, preventing the TEST and RESET buttons from pushing in. The buttons of a GFCI use a spring mechanism. They are convinced that they can test a GFCI by lightly tapping the TEST button. You have to keep pushing until you hear a click. Some TEST buttons require a lot of strength to push in, especially if the GFCI is old. Less Effortįirst of all, make sure you are applying as much effort as you can. If the TEST button refuses to push in, you have two potential causes to consider: 1). Sometimes, a GFCI will fail a test because the user did not push the TEST button hard enough. Loose wiring can prevent a GFCI from carrying out manual and automatic tests. ![]() I want you to troubleshoot a defective GFCI to ensure that they check for loose connections. Make sure it hasn’t tripped, depriving the GFCI of power. If you don’t have any GFCIs upstream, check the circuit breaker. Therefore, pressing the TEST button won’t do anything. If you have another GFCI upstream, and if it trips, depending on your configuration, that first GFCI will cut the power to all the GFCIs downstream. That GFCI will eventually find its way into someone’s home. You can expect every batch of outlets to have at least one defective GFCI. Manufacturers make mistakes all the time. I expect you to replace any GFCI that refuses to trip when you press the TEST button because that GFCI is of no use. If the GFCI is new and it won’t test, it is probably defective. Some GFCIs have a diagnostic light that will activate to alert you that the GFCI in question has reached the end of its life. If you have had the same GFCI outlets for several years and they no longer test, you have every reason to assume that they have reached the end of their lifespan. Ultimately, it depends on the way they are treated. GFCI outlets have a lifespan of 15-25 years, which is a long time. They will reach a point where they can no longer function. GFCIs can fail to test for any number of reasons. What happens when a GFCI fails to perform those tests? What if the TEST button has refused to work? Is the GFCI dead? Can you salvage it? Why Won’t My GFCI Test? But you have to test them routinely to ensure that their protective mechanisms are still operational. ![]() Try visiting an Electrical Forum for electrical advice.GFCIs will keep you safe by tripping in response to ground faults. I appreciate the knowledge of you all and the helpful insight you’re willing to give. Why wouldn’t I be able to press the test or reset button in on a working GFCI outlet in the bathroom? Kitchen is on the 20 on top and 20 on the bottom. In the kitchen, would it be possible that the breaker is bad instead of the GFCI? The breaker in the panel looks to be 4 breakers made together (unless they’re all singles and just appear to be 1 breaker fuse). What on earth is going on here? Every other outlet in the single wide works fine. Even using some force with a plastic piece to apply direct pressure on the test and reset button, they still won’t click. I’ve searched for other GFCI receptacles throughout the single wide, and happened to notice the one in the bathroom that works, but I’m not able to press in the test or reset button on it either. I’ve switched the wiring around on the load/line and the orange light doesn’t light up when I flip the breaker back on, so I switched them back to the previous way, once again, orange light comes back on. There’s an orange light on the receptacle that is lit, yet no power, and I’m not able to press the test or reset button to trip it. Multiple lamps I’m using to test the power in the receptacle aren’t working. ![]() I’ve replaced the GFCI with a new 20a GFCI from lowes, made sure the wiring was correct. I’ve flipped all the breakers to the off position, then back to the on position. Wasn’t able to press in the test or reset button at all. I recently plugged the vacuum into the kitchen GFCI receptacle, and it suddeny stopped working. New to the forum, so I apologize to any ignorance with where/how/what to post.
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